在穿越中国的旅程中，我们没有路过比这里更值得详细探索的偏僻之地了；我们确信将来的旅行者会为这些记载而向我们深表感谢。
就如这里的崇山峻岭,到处都充满了惊奇，没有什么可以让我们目瞪口呆。在一条看上去有600到700英尺（也许更高〕的深色石壁中的裂缝底部，植物突然停止了生长；在山缝的陡壁之间，一条湍流从巨石的最底处涌出。我们无法看清幽暗的深渊，而那离路边不到二英里,人可及。突如其来的黑色石群与紧接着逐渐斜向上的绿色山坡之间所形成的鲜明对照，给人们一种在距离上的错觉；高峰与危岩所投射下来的影子加深了阴暗度，接着，视线在无助与无望中向上抬起,最后一幕印入眼帘 - 耀眼的积雪。这里景色引人入胜,但我们的指令是迅速旅行。于是，在回眸了很多次之后，我们才依依不舍地继续赶路，并许愿有一天这些阴暗笼罩下的大门将为我们而开启。
(贝德禄 Colborne E. Baber，《华西旅行考查记》，伦敦，1882年) |
We passed no nook in our whole journey across China more worthy of close exploration than this; and we are confident that the traveller of the future will record a depth of gratitude to us for having pointed it out.
Replete as this mountain system is with surprises, no contrast is so striking as here meets our gaze. At the foot of a rift in a wall of dark rock, apparently 600 or 700 ft. in height, but possibly much more, vegetation suddenly ceases, and between the vertical sides of the chasm issues a torrent from the very feet of the giants within. The eye in vain attempts to penetrate the interiour gloom of this gulf, which is probably not more than two miles distant from the road, and easily accessible. The contrast between the sudden black masses of rock and the green and gradual slope which approaches it, utterly confuses all perception of distance; the shadows thrown by the pinnacles and crags above deepen the obscurity, and the sight ascends, helpless and hopeless, to the final contrast of the dazzling snows. It is an absorbing scene; but our instructions are to travel with all despatch. We hurry on with many backward glances, and a vow that these murky gates shall one day open to us.
Colborne E. Baber, “Travels and Researches in Western China”, London 1882 |
